Sunday, February 24, 2013

School and Surabaya


I should also take some time to write about what it’s like living in Surabaya. Surabaya is Indonesia’s second largest city; about 4 or 5 million people live here. It’s sprawled out like western suburbs in America. Not unlike the city of Denver actually the way it is sprawled out, but houses are tiny (according to American standards), there are no yards, and many people are packed in tightly. Many people from smaller cities, towns and villages only come to Surabaya to work temporarily and travel between their home and the big city. Surabaya is not touristy and not a place of real interest to tourists, although its prime location and history as a significant port city make it an ideal place for expats to have their primary residence. There are countless malls, which are extremely large and full of western stores and food options (although not as tasty…) and a U.S. consulate is located just outside the city in a neighborhood nicknamed for its resemblance to Singapore, i.e. there are no poor people and less garbage as people can afford to have it removed and their lawns manicured.

As crowded as it is, I prefer living in Surabaya. There are international organizations working in the city, which I volunteer with, and in general so many more opportunities to collaborate with Indonesians and do work that feels important and useful. I already spent two years having the Peace Corps lifestyle, I wanted, and needed, something different.

I don’t think many Americans I know would like Surabaya. However, it has a lot to offer someone like me, and it was a perfect fit. I can accomplish the goals of a Fulbright ETA as well as my own personal goals during the grant period. 

One of the many malls in Surabaya. 

Plenty of places to eat in the mall... 

House of Sampoerna family house. (as in Sampoerna cigarettes)

Dance Dance Revolution Competition. Check out the crowd!


Now school!

Teaching in Indonesia is very similar to teaching in the Republic of Georgia. Basically, it’s like teaching everywhere. Teenagers are the same anywhere—they have boyfriends and girlfriends, don’t want to do homework, want to cheat on tests, and only want to talk about movies and pop music. However, Indonesian students seem quieter, truly respect their teachers, and generally act younger than their age.

I am impressed with the quality of teachers at SMA Khadijah. Many teachers speak conversational English (making my life much easier) and work harder than most people in the city. The teachers get to school at around 6:00am before school starts (starts at 6:30am) and stay after afternoon lessons finish, often not leaving for home until 4:00 or 5:00pm. Most of the teachers live far away from school sometimes traveling for two hours one-way to get to work. School is Monday – Saturday and everyone rests on Sunday.

Work is a time to work, but also to socialize. Although my school is a private Islamic school, teachers and students alike have plenty of time to socialize with their friends and strengthen the close community bond they have by praying together several times a day. Some students participate in additional Cambridge classes where they are taught their school subjects according to the Cambridge International Curriculum. Of course, this requires passing extra exams and increased school payments, but teachers and students use the Cambridge system in the hope of getting certificates that can be used when and if they apply to international schools for college or study exchange. These certificates can also improve their chances of acceptance at some prestigious Indonesian universities (or so they tell me).

My average workday begins at 5:45am when I wake up, get ready for classes and leave for school at 6:30am. I arrive around 6:45am, just after morning prayers end and begin teaching classes. I teach English to around 200 10th grade students, who are speaking English as a third or fourth language, after Javanese, Indonesian, and Arabic. I have anywhere from two to four 90 minute classes throughout each day and usually go home around 3:00 or 4:00pm. These long days make me extremely tired and I spend the evenings relaxing by reading, talking to friends, going to the mall, watching TV, or looking up jobs to apply to. On weekends, I might collaborate with Education USA and teach writing workshops to university students, or volunteer with World Vision to teach underprivileged Maduranese (people from the island of Madura) children about health and English. This is how I spend my time! 
  
One of my classes

The street in front of the school (yes, kids swim in the ditch water)

The school deer

School hallway

Islamic pop star Maher Zain came to sing and visit Khadijah's orphans

Two of the most helpful people I know

Teacher Birthday Party!


Saturday, February 23, 2013

Notes From December...


During orientation and the first few weeks in site, it is only natural to notice all the differences between your old home and new home. You start to compare everything to what you are used to. Maybe people complain about cold showers, or roosters crowing outside, the heat, or call to prayer. So many things are different when you move to a new place and although your new home is temporary, you take note of the things that are normal for you and those that are very foreign.

The strangest feeling for me was when I realized that I was not adjusting to living in Indonesia as an American, but instead I was adjusting to living in Indonesia as a Georgian.

It really takes at least two years to really understand a culture, and even then you really know nothing about that culture. In two years you learn so much, know the language, gestures, how to argue, and you can predict every move of the host country nationals that you encounter in your newly molded routine. You know that no matter what you do, you will always be the foreigner and that most people will ignore your statements about what people in your country are really like, but will continue to think what they were told their whole lives without direct experience. This is something that is very difficult to explain to people, and something that they need to learn on their own.

But when I moved to Indonesia I noticed things that others did not. I didn’t care about cold showers; I couldn’t believe how many people had running water. My concern wasn’t with how to clean my bathtub; it was trying to figure out the water system as soon as possible. So does the water come Tuesdays and Fridays? What times of day does it come? Is the main source from the neighborhood shared with other neighborhoods (or, “kampungs”)? How is electricity distributed and shared? As I assumed, the latter depends on which neighborhood you live in depending on your socioeconomic status. At school, I was concerned on who would plan with me and how to make my situation the most sustainable. These are certainly things that Peace Corps teaches you. But I also noticed that the cultural differences of Indonesians I was picking up on I wasn’t comparing to American culture, I was comparing them to the culture I was most comfortable with, the culture I spent so much time adjusting to—Georgian culture.

I may have spent two years being incredibly frustrated with Georgians, but regardless of the tough times I had, I grew to understand them. When other people complain about Indonesians not working enough, I say, but they work so much more than other people! Indonesians bathe between 2-4 times a day!! Unbelievable from a Georgian perspective (this is unnecessary in Georgia, but mostly just impractical). Certainly, Indonesians bathe more for many reasons, but this is a huge cultural difference; a pleasant one!

I should say that this was also extremely useful in adjusting to Indonesian life, as there are many similarities between Indonesian and Georgian culture (basically in that they are not western). Coming to Indonesia I knew I would mostly hang out with Indonesians. (Expats don’t really interest me). I knew that I would hang out with women more than men, which is custom in more conservative cultures anyway. I expected to hang out with women older than me. I expected that women my age were newly married with young children and households that they must attend to. I assumed that many men would talk to me inappropriately, inappropriate even for their culture, which many westerners to not pick up on. I knew there were social cues to learn, a hierarchy to conform to, and a way of life that sometimes would seem too slow, or too spontaneous and “unplanned.” That was all normal and comfortable to me, but is also something I knew would be hard for others to adjust to. I saw it all around me later at our “mid-year” conference; held only two months after staying in our permanent sites. Most of the women in my group here just didn’t understand how to live in a conservative culture. They needed time to experience things and change and learn how their actions are perceived and why.

Other things that I noticed were different, or absent, from Georgian life was the access to food! Granted I am in a very large site now, but you can find things like broccoli, squash, and lettuce, which were rare even in the most developed city of Georgia. I recognize there are many reasons for this, but still, there are more food options in Indonesia!

Driving practices are about the same though. Oh ya, definitely the same. 


Motorbikes, Scooters, Angkots, bicycles, cars, everything!

My street entrance

View of South Surabaya from Royal Plaza, SMA Khadijah (my school) included 

When I first arrived in Wonokromo, Surabaya last September, I was able to meet many neighbors thanks to my school teachers and administrators organizing a meet and greet. These pictures show this gathering as the women congregate inside my house, while the men stay together outside (this is the custom). I also include pictures of my neighbor's friends, a wedding on my street, and my first house mouse (named Ernie).

Meeting the neighbors

My living room, looking out onto the street

My neighbor's friends

Wedding preparation

The day Ernie died

I decided to use this blog as a tool to show people what I am doing, or what I have done while in Indonesia. In Peace Corps, it doesn't matter if you don't update your blog constantly because you have 27 months, but when you have less time than a full school year takes, then three months may seem like a long time between posts. I still think like a PCV.

I will be back in the U.S. in three months. I am going to post some stories and pictures to show everyone what is going on in my life so you have plenty of things to ask me about when I see you again this summer. :)